Apple Magic

Robin Van Creveld encourages us to plant trees and enjoy their fruit

“A great shopper” will never be my epitaph! I thoroughly dislike shopping and very rarely buy ‘stuff’. My gifts are generally home-made and often edible.

I’m not particularly mean or grumpy, although I suspect my daughter might think otherwise; I just find the cycle of consumerism particularly tedious and deeply unfulfilling. For me, home-made gifts or sharing food are always a more satisfying way of expressing my love than adding extra fuel to the insatiable fire of materialism.

When my children were born we were showered with gifts. In addition to the hand-me-downs and spanking new ‘stuff’, both children were given apple trees, which we planted ceremonially. A fruit tree is one gift I particularly approve of because it fits into my “is it useful and can you eat it?” baseline. Fruit trees are a living reminder of fundamental events like a birth; they grow with you, punctuate the seasons and yield free bounty for many a year.

Once again, I’m in the throes of apple magic. My van smells like a packing shed and my kitchen is awash with rare varieties like Crawley Beauty and Slack ma Girdle. Autumn may be the time for picking apples, but winter is the time for planting and cooking them. I feel deeply blessed to be part of a Sussex-based project that plants heritage fruit orchards in schools and community spaces. We’ve planted over 50 orchards so far and in so doing are ensuring that rare varieties are preserved and communities have sources of free local food for future generations to use and enjoy.

I run hands-on fruit cookery workshops with children and communities alongside the tree plantings, and these recipes are from this year’s programme. They also lend themselves to being given as gifts.

 

Spiced squash and apple soup

This sweet and spicy soup is the perfect tonic for banishing the winter blues. The raw garlic and ginger added last are a great boost for the immune system. You can make it in bulk and give it away to your hungry friends and family or freeze it in useful portions using recycled yoghurt pots. It takes less than 30 minutes to make.

 

Serves 6

1 tbsp olive oil

2 onions, chopped

2 small cooking apples such as Bramley or Charles Ross, peeled, deseeded and

chopped

1kg (2 lb) butternut or kabocha squash, peeled, deseeded and chopped

1 tbsp mild curry powder

1l (2 pt) reduced-salt vegetable stock

1 tbsp grated ginger

2 cloves garlic, chopped

Salt and pepper

 

Method

  1. Heat the oil in a large pot and fry the onions until they start to brown.
  2. Add the chopped apples and squash to the pot and cook for a further 5 minutes.
  3. Add the curry powder and cook for a minute more.
  4. Add the stock and bring to the boil.
  5. Reduce heat to a fast simmer and cook for 15 minutes.
  6. Before you serve this soup, remove one cup of liquid and blend very well with the ginger and garlic. Return this to the pot and blend the soup to a very smooth consistency. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

 

Variations:

  • I like to serve this soup with toasted sesame seeds and a swirl of cream.
  • Adding a spoon of seasonal pesto to each serving of the soup looks wonderful and adds further depth of flavour. Try this easy combination: blend 3 tbsp toasted hazelnuts, a clove of garlic and 6 tbsp chopped coriander with 3 tbsp olive oil. Season with salt and pepper or a dash of chilli.
  • You can also add red lentils to this soup to make it even more hearty and nutritious.
  • Make a simple baby food by steaming some extra squash and apple on top of the soup to use as purée or finger food.

 

Apple fritters spiked with perry and pepper

This is a truly delicious dish, sweet, hot and rich. On cold winter days it really hits the spot. Serve it as a sweet, dusted in sugar or dipped in thick hot chocolate or with strong cheese, white meats or fish. Make sure the oil is up to the correct heat or the batter will drink it up and be greasy and soggy.

Sunflower oil, for deep frying

4 firm eating apples such as Cox or Windsor

150g (6 oz) self-raising flour, plus extra for dusting

½ tsp cinnamon

½ tsp ground black pepper

50g (2 oz) caster sugar

175–200ml (⅓–½ pt) perry or pear juice

 

Method

  1. Heat the oil to 180 °C (356 °F) in a deep-fat fryer or large saucepan.
  2. Remove the core from the apples using an apple corer, and peel. Cut off the top and bottom of the apples and then slice the fruit into pieces about 2cm thick.
  3. To make the batter, sift the flour, cinnamon and black pepper into a bowl and stir in the sugar. Whisk in enough of the perry or pear juice to make a thick coating batter.
  4. Dip the apple slices into the batter and carefully slide into the hot oil. Do just a few at a time to prevent them from sticking together. Fry for about 1–2 minutes, until they are light golden brown and crispy.
  5. Remove from the oil, drain on kitchen paper and eat straight away.

 

Apple and ginger jelly

Jelly making can be a labour of love, but if you have the time and space it is well worth it. Preserves like this make great presents. They are cheap to make but expensive to buy. Apple is low in pectin, the natural setting agent found in most fruit, but the pips are full of it, so make sure you use the whole apple. The ginger adds a warm layer of flavour that slightly offsets the intense sweetness of the jelly. Serve with bread and cheese, rich meats or apple fritters.

 

Makes about 2 litres (4 pints) of jelly

2kg (4½ lb) Bramley or any other sharp-flavoured apple
cold water to cover
approximately 1.5kg (3 lb) preserving sugar
100g (4 oz) fresh ginger

 

Method

  1. Chop the apples and place the fruit – cores, pips and all – into a large, heavy-bottomed pan. Chop up the ginger and add to the apples. Add enough cold water to cover. Bring to the boil, reduce the heat and allow to simmer for 30–40 minutes, or until the fruit is pulpy.
  2. Pour the fruit and liquid into a sterilised jelly bag or triple-folded clean cotton muslin and allow it to drain through into a large container until it stops dripping, (about 3–4 hours). Be patient and don’t be tempted to squeeze the bag too much or the jelly will be cloudy.
  3. Measure the juice by volume and allow 450g (1 lb) preserving sugar for every 500ml (1 pt) of juice.
  4. Place the juice and sugar in a clean pan. Bring to the boil, stirring until the sugar has dissolved. Reduce the heat and skim any scum from the surface with a metal spoon.
  5. Return to the boil and boil hard, continuing to skim off any scum, for 15–20 minutes or until setting point is reached. The setting point for jelly is 105° C (220 °F). Use a sugar thermometer to test this or put 1 teaspoon of jelly onto a cold saucer and allow it to cool for a minute. Push the jelly gently with your fingertip. If the surface wrinkles, setting point has been reached.
  6. Remove the pan from the heat and leave to settle for a few minutes. Skim the surface again if necessary.
  7. Place clean jars the right way up on a baking tray in an oven heated to 90 °C (200 °F/Gas Mark ¼) for 10 minutes to sterilise them.
  8. Pour the hot liquid jelly through a sterilised funnel into the hot jars. Seal the jars while still hot.

 

Chocolate-dipped nut and apple brittle

This is my take on peanut brittle, but without the sugar or the peanuts. It is a delicious and nutritious sweet treat that is easy to make and stores well, so with some creative packaging it is a good dish to give as a gift. The seeds are a great source of carbohydrates, protein and healthy fats. You can use this combination of seeds and nuts or improvise and create your own.

 

2 tbsp chopped hazelnuts or pecan nuts

2 tbsp pumpkin seeds

2 tbsp sunflower seeds

2 tbsp sesame seeds

1 tbsp apple juice concentrate – available from health and wholefood shops

2 tbsp barley malt syrup

100g (4 oz) dark chocolate for dipping

 

Method:

  1. Oil a large flat plate lightly with sunflower oil or prepare a non-stick silicone mat.
  2. Dry fry the nuts and seeds in a large frying pan over a medium heat, stirring constantly until they go a shade or two darker.
  3. Remove the pan from the heat and add the apple juice concentrate and barley malt syrup. Return to the heat and cook gently for a minute longer, stirring well. The mixture should dry out a bit but still be sticky enough to bind together.
  4. Turn the hot, sticky seeds onto the oiled plate or silicone mat. With wet hands, mould into a uniform shape and push gently down. Allow this to cool and harden and then cut the slab into slices or wedges.
  5. Break all the chocolate into a stainless-steel or glass bowl and place this in a saucepan of simmering water (bain-marie). Slowly melt the chocolate, stirring occasionally.
  6. Using two forks, dip the brittle into the chocolate, place on baking parchment or greaseproof paper and leave to cool.

 

 

Robin Van Creveld is a chef, educator, social activist and entrepreneur. He lives in Sussex and is married to the artist Riga Forbes. When he is not parenting Anoushka, aged 5 and Orlando, aged 1, he runs www.communitychef.org.uk

 

For more info about the Local Fruit Futures project, visit

www.brightonpermaculture.org.uk/fruit

www.ruralsussex.org.uk/service/food-local-products

Venus Rob Update

Venus Rob is a wonderful herbal remedy. In my editor’s blog of 11 September 2011 I wrote about how I’d foraged for elderberries then made the Venus Rob syrup using Fiona Heckel’s recipe, which you can find on the Natural Health pages of Issue 25 of JUNO.

During a gloomy, damp November week, both Matthew and I have been suffering from sore throats and sniffles, and drinking Venus Rob. And we are both delighted with the results. It is warming, comforting and soothing, and makes us feel better. In the next issue of JUNO (published 1 December), Fiona writes about how just being out in Nature can be healing. I like to think that some of the positivity I felt when picking the elderberries has been infused into the syrup, aiding its healing properties. As with home-cooking, drinking something I’ve created myself is extra nurturing.

Of course, it’s too late to harvest elderberries now, but make a note for next year. And look out for more of Fiona’s recipes in JUNO and on her website www.sensorysolutions.co.uk

Go on a taste adventure

Have you looked at your food really closely? Does your food always smell like it tastes? Which foods go crunch and which go slurp? Can you tell the difference between sweet, salty and bitter tastes?

There’s excitement in the tasting, sniffing and feel of food. The Taste Adventure, which is run by Slow Food UK in partnership with grainchain.com, aims to bring these sensations to life.

The Taste Adventure is a simple yet fun activity aimed at four to 10 year olds but it is loved just as much by the big kids among us. It encourages children to think about food and takes them on an inspiring journey through five interactive zones, each with a focus on one of the five senses: taste, sight, touch, smell and sound. Our young Taste Adventurers are given a passport complete with fun food cartoon characters and are invited to collect stamps as they explore, interact and make new food discoveries.

Catherine Gazzoli, Slow Food UK’s CEO, explains, “We get the real taste of our food just as much through our eyes and noses as we do our tongues. The Taste Adventure teaches us all to take time to think about taste.”

Alex Waugh of grainchain.com, the educational resource which sponsors The Taste Adventure says, “Introducing children to a wide range of foods, tastes and textures and where they come from at an early age helps to contribute to informed and healthier approaches to food and mealtime choices during childhood and indeed throughout life.”

A free of charge event, The Taste Adventure showcases the ethos of Slow Food in action. Slow Food is dedicated to promoting the greater enjoyment of food through a better understanding of its taste, quality and production.

The Taste Adventure is delivered by voluntary members of Slow Food and the Slow Food UK office team, with support from grainchain.com who offer recipes, videos, classroom materials, games and much more at www.grainchain.com

For more information on The Taste Adventure, download an information pack from the project section on Slow Food’s website, http://www.slowfood.org.uk

Upcoming Taste Adventure dates are Friday until Sunday 6 November 2011 at Henley International Film Festival, Henley

Sunday 27 November 2011 at BBC Good Food Show, Birmingham

 

Roast Dinner Day

On 12 October 2011 schools across England will be taking part in a Food for Life Partnership Roast Dinner Day. Parents and the local community will be invited in to enjoy a locally sourced roast dinner with their children and school staff.

The Food for Life Partnership, led by the Soil Association, works with over 4,200 schools in England to reconnect children with the food they eat through growing, cooking and farm visits.

Roast Dinner Day highlights the importance of healthy, locally sourced food, and involves caterers and the local community. It’s the brainchild of Jeanette Orrey, the school cook who inspired Jamie Oliver’s school dinner campaign. Jeanette says

“It’s about engaging parents and local communities in creating a better food culture for all. It’s about highlighting the importance of good, healthy school dinners and educating children about where their food comes from through growing, cooking and farm visits.

www.foodforlife.org.uk

The Hungry Gap

Robin van Creveld is a chef, educator, social activist and entrepreneur. He lives in Sussex and is married to the artist Riga Forbes. When he is not parenting Orlando, one, and Anoushka, five, he runs www.communitychef.org.uk

Some years ago, I took time out of the kitchen and took to the road. Life felt light: I was in love, child-free and actively exploring the paths of service, devotion, recreation and distraction in equal measure. My travels took me south, back to the country of my birth to face some demons and say farewell to Clara, my grandmother, who, along with my mum and sisters, had inspired and encouraged me to cook. She was spending her final days in a care home and I visited her every day for a week, [Read more...]

Superfoods

Raw food guru, Kate Wood shares her passion for foods packed with energy

May I start by declaring my bias? I love superfoods! I eat them every day, and have done for nearly two decades. I don’t know how I could survive without them – sure, I would still be alive, but I think I can state categorically that I would not be as happy and energetic as I am without them, and I certainly wouldn’t be leading such a joyful and abundant life. They provide me with that edge, that get-up and go, which helps me deal with the demands of motherhood, and still have energy for myself. As a breastfeeding mother, I can be sure my high nutritional requirements [Read more...]

Satish’s Indian Bhojan

Satish Kumar, our Director of Programmes, is unusual amongst Indian men of his generation in that his mother brought him up not only to cook, but to enjoy spending many happy hours in the kitchen. This he continues to do whilst at Schumacher College, and participants often feel delighted when they discover they are in the Monday night cooking group and will have the mysteries of North Indian cooking calmly revealed to them under the tutelage of Satish and his giant sauté pans. For many more traditional men from the subcontinent, their first encounter with cooking in the Schumacher College kitchen is met with a mixture of trepidation and eager anticipation. Indeed, they have often asked me to take a snapshot for their wives, as evidence that this unlikely occasion has really taken place!

Before proceeding with the recipes, over to Satish for one of the most essential ingredients-atmosphere.

“My first memory of cooking in my mother’s kitchen takes me back to the age of five. I was making chappatis-unleavened flat bread. I loved playing with the dough and rolling it out. All sorts of shapes would emerge-and my mother would laugh at my triangular chappatis, knowing they should have been round.

Our kitchen was a warm and reviving place, that brought all who cooked there immediately in touch with earth and fire-those basic elements that underlie all cooking, yet are so often invisible in modern kitchens. My mother sat on the ground, cross-legged. Around her sat her children, and everything she needed. Between us, pots and pans bubbled on a brick and mud stove. Two or three logs fed the flame, pointing towards the chimney where the smoke disappeared.

We were a family of eight brothers and sisters-four boys and four girls. Mother insisted that all four boys learned to cook. This was exceptional, but she believed that if you can enjoy cooking, you can enjoy eating even more.

Mother was an intuitive cook and we learned by observing how she prepared the food. She never had any recipe books-there were none in the house. In any case, Mother could not read or write, but she was herself a book of countless recipes.

When I became a monk I stopped cooking, and so from the age of nine to eighteen the practice of cooking lapsed. Later, when I joined a Gandhian Ashram, Mother’s cooking came back to me very quickly. I met a man called Sundarani, for whom cooking was a creative process, an art form. He was also a gardener and produced many kinds of vegetables and herbs. So there at the Ashram I truly experienced the joy of cooking. I liked to do nothing more than work in the garden, pick the vegetables, wash them, chop them finely, use appropriate combinations, appropriate herbs and spices, and take pleasure in serving the food and also in washing up. Cooking at the Ashram became a form of spiritual work, a form of meditation, a form of service-and a form of aesthetic experience.”

The following gives all you will need for Satish’s classic Indian meal (or bhojan), consisting of several different dishes. A few pickles, such as mango, brinjal and lime, are often served as well. The level of spiciness has been tailored for mild Western palates, and can be zapped up if you prefer your curries hotter.

Ingredients

  • Serves 4-6 people
  • 1 lb (450 g/3 cups) potatoes in 1/2″(11/2 cm) cubes
  • 1 1/2 lb (700 g/1 medium-sized) cauliflower cut into little florets
  • 12 oz (350 g/21/2 cups) onions, thin sliced
  • 10 oz (275 g/11/4 cups) chopped tomatoes
  • 4 1/2 oz (125 g/2/3 cup) red split lentils
  • 3 oz (85 g/3/4 cup) frozen peas
  • 9 oz (250 g) spinach
  • 14 oz (400 g/2 cups) basmati rice
  • 4 oz (110 g) natural yoghurt
  • 2-3″ (5-7 cm) cucumber
  • 1-2 oz (30-55 g/1/2-1 cup) fresh coriander leaves
  • 4-6 cloves garlic, minced
  • 1-2 oz (30-55 g/2-4 tbsp) fresh ginger root, grated
  • 1-2 green chillies (depending on strength)
  • 2 tbsp turmeric
  • 2 tbsp garam masala
  • 2-3 tsp cumin seed
  • 1/2 lemon approx
  • salt to taste
  • poppadums-allow one each and a few extra

Directions
Cover the bases of three average/large frying pans with olive oil. Use large saucepans if large frying pans or sauté pans are not available. Gently fry 2 tsp cumin seed in each until brown. Add one third of the onions to each pan and fry slowly until golden brown. Cooking these onions separately like this is the first stage in making the following three dishes (Saag Aloo, Ghobi Mutter and Dhal).

Saag Aloo (potatoes and spinach)
Pre-cook the potatoes in some boiling water until soft (15-20 minutes). To one pan add the par-boiled potatoes and 2 tsp ginger, 1 tbsp garlic, 2 tsp turmeric, 1 tbsp garam masala, 1/2 tsp salt. Meanwhile steam a quantity of spinach leaf and then add to the potatoes about 5 minutes before serving. Alternatively, use defrosted frozen spinach that has been thawing for several hours, preferably overnight.

Ghobi Mutter (cauliflower and peas)
To another pan of golden brown onions add 1 tbsp garam masala, 2 tsp turmeric, 1/2 tbsp salt and the cauliflower. Stir well and cook, covered, over a low flame until tender. Using plenty of oil and a lid, Satish seems to have no problem getting the cauliflower to cook. However, he suggests you add a sprinkling of water if the cauliflower is not cooking or you prefer to use less oil. Add the peas about 5-10 minutes before serving-using defrosted (or fresh) peas and adding them only towards the end of cooking time should ensure they remain bright green in colour, twinkling like emeralds on the serving table. That is how Satish likes them, though other Indian visitors have challenged him, saying curried peas should be allowed to turn khaki!

Dhal and Chonked Dhal
Sort the lentils carefully by spreading a little at a time on a white plate. Brown lentils are OK, but tiny stones are not, and though they may be very rare, they are worth checking for-for the sake of someone’s tooth! Cook the lentils in three times their volume of water with 3/4 tsp turmeric, 1 tsp garam masala and 1/2 tsp salt. When nearly cooked, add the third quantity of cooked onions and cumin and continue to simmer. Blend until creamy with a hand whisk or rod blender.

You now have the option of making ‘Chonk’ (or ‘Tarka’) dhal, but bear in mind that it requires great care and is best learned by observation. Basically, you add some cumin that has been browned in a pool of olive oil, in a small pan. While the olive oil is still piping hot and smoking you pour it into the dhal. Because it will steam up and sizzle terrifically you need to use the lid of the pan as a shield to protect your face, and you need to close the lid over the handle of the small pan you are emptying into the dhal, whilst the steam subsides. When the smoke has gone you can stir the dhal. If you are unclear about these instructions, avoid chonking. Whether chonked or not, you can go on to add the tomatoes to the dhal for the last ten minutes of cooking.

Raita
Peel and chop the cucumber. Mix with the yoghurt and a little salt. Add a little water, milk or cream to make the curd smoother-this may represent about one-eighth of the total volume, though of course it depends on the thickness of the yoghurt. Bruise some cumin seeds between your hands and scatter over the yoghurt mixture. Another way of making raita is to include freshly chopped tomato and red onion alongside the cucumber and other ingredients.

Coriander Chutney
Wash and dry the coriander. Remove any tough stalks. Chop up the green chilli and remove seeds (unless you are going for a very hot chutney). Blend 1 green chilli, with the coriander leaf, 1 tbsp chopped ginger, 1 tbsp roughly chopped garlic, the juice of 1/2 lemons and about 1/4 tsp salt together in a food processor or liquidizer with enough olive oil to slightly thicken it (2 tbsp approx.). Add a little yoghurt if you like. Traditionally, the coriander leaf would be crushed between two stones. Alternatively, a pestle and mortar could be used, or a mezzaluna-and some persistence! For a hotter version, use double the number of chillies and omit the coriander and ginger. Red chillies can also be used.

Basmati Rice
Bring rice to the boil in the water. The ratio required is one part rice to two parts water. Once boiling, turn the burner down as low as possible and put a lid on. Continue to cook for about 15 minutes until all the water is absorbed and the rice fluffy, and grains (hopefully) still separate.

Poppadums

We always use Lijjat poppadums, which are made by a Women’s Cooperative in Bombay. Fry them in about 1/4″ (1/2-1 cm) of sunflower oil on both sides. Using tongs, move the papadum from surface to surface several times quite swiftly-until they are light brown, puffed and rather moon-like! Hold above the frying pan with the tongs for a few seconds to shake off excess oil. Stack upright in a dish lined with absorbent paper underneath to soak up excess oil. Keep warm until serving time, if necessary.

Shumacher College was founded in 1991 based on the human scale values of E.F. Schumacher, author of Small is Beautiful. It is now more than a decade since the first supper was served and course participants have been requesting copies of recipes ever since. Gaia’s Kitchen – Vegetarian recipes for family and community is the result of these many requests.

Taken from Gaia’s Kitchen by Julia Ponsonby, Green Books, £12.99